Saturday, May 09, 2015

My Iron Lung - St Dauvit

At last I can reveal the "secret project" I have been working on for the last month for "The Contemporary Jewellery Exchange 2015" in which various contemporary jewellers around the world create pieces which they send to each other. I didn't want to reveal what I was making until the recipient, Jan Donaldson in Australia, has received it.

Jan has written and researched extensively on the subject of dolls and puppets - she is a master puppet-maker - and her work very much relates to dolls as carriers of meaning, emotion and memory and I wanted my own piece for her to reflect those interests. For some time, I've had this damaged 'porcelain' doll lying on the bench:

My Iron Lung - TCJE 2015 - WIP - 1

(I thought it was porcelain, but when I came to drill it, it proved to be very hard cast glass!) I can't quite remember where this came from but I've been thinking about giving it some sort of prosthetic limbs to replace the broken ones and this project became the ideal vehicle for it.

The starting-point was the idea of creating a sort of puppet-theatre, rather in the form of my "Cold Genius" and "A Forest" pieces, a box in which a little drama can be played out and again the source material was music, this time Radiohead's "My Iron Lung".

My Iron Lung - TCJE 2015  - Workbook - 2

I can't quite remember why I settled on this song, but the lyrics - especially the lines,
"My brain says I'm receiving pain, 
"A lack of oxygen, 
"From my life support, 
"My iron lung"
modified the idea during the drawing stage into being something more related to the idea of an operating-theatre and the cruciform support for the strings of the puppet morphed into a red-cross on top

My Iron Lung - TCJE 2015  - Workbook - 4

This text also appears on the hinged door on the back of the piece (which allows access to the rear of the doll, access to the brain):

My Iron Lung - TCJE 2015  - 43

The main body of the pendant is made from a piece of corroded steel box-girder and I'm very pleased with the completed piece, which has loads of little details to the chain and the box itself. My favourite element is probably the movable 9ct gold gas-mask on the doll:

My Iron Lung - TCJE 2015  - 32

If you would like to see more photographs of how this came together as well as the details, these can be found here.

I am delighted to be able to report that Jan loves this piece.



BUT, it was an exchange: what did Jan send me?

I received "St. Dauvit: Fragments from the Alter", a startling and impressive piece which I absolutely love, including brass, a found bell, handmade silver dolls, bass guitar strings, handwritten vintage letters and huge brass pins from a defunct textile mill in Sydney:




I am absolutely amazed by this piece, which can be partially dismantled and worn as either a brooch or a pendant and which so perfectly reflects aspects of my own interests and practices and it is fantastic to be able to say that our experiences of this project are such that I am really hoping to meet with Jan in the autumn of this year, either here in Glasgow or in Paris, where she is attending a puppet-making conference.



In terms of other work on the bench, I've been working a lot on my entry for the ACJ exhibition, "Sleight of Hand" for which I have now been selected, completing the watch chain, internal watch chain and the fob:

Pulling Rabbits Out Of A Hat - WIP - 47

Pulling Rabbits Out Of A Hat - WIP - 48

Pulling Rabbits Out Of A Hat - WIP - 67

Pulling Rabbits Out Of A Hat - WIP - 57

The case is currently away having a new glass made and fitted but the whole should be completed very soon.


Last time I was in Brighton, I picked up a pair of horse bits in a junk shop, quite simply on the grounds that they are the perfect size for bangles!

Horse Things

The bit on the right has already been made into a pair of bangles, "Nag Nag Nag" and "Horse Rotovator" - managing to neatly reference 1980s industrial music as well as horses (!) - using the idea of the mediaeval scold's bridle for the forms:

Horse Rotovator - Nag Nag Nag



It is that time of year when the students impress me by showing that they have become real jewellers! Here is a little piece by my student Paula Sloan, a hand-formed anti-clastic raised silver bangle, set with multicoloured sapphires:

Wavy Lines - 2

Wavy Lines - 1



What, Indeed?

I also managed to find time to pop into London to the V&A to take in two phenomenal shows, "Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty" and "What Is Luxury".

The McQueen show is more than just a re-showing of the Metropolitan Museum show of 2011 and is larger, better laid-out and somehow just altogether less cluttered and claustrophobic while offering much more. For me, this is a show of overwhelming sadness about what the world has lost in his passing. I'll be writing up a full review for publication in the ACJ's "Findings" magazine in September. All I have to say is that this is not to be missed.

"What Is Luxury"  is not such a blockbuster but it rather neatly addresses some of the issues which preoccupied McQueen (especially in his last "Horn of Plenty" show), issues about waste, branding, inequality, as well as how talent, skill and concept feed into the idea and does this by creating a fascinating dialogue between different ideas of luxury in the past and projecting those ideas into what could become luxury in the future.


Tuesday, April 21, 2015

Spring Break - A Holiday And A New Suit

I've been on holiday!

Last thing on my bench were the silver "rabbit in a hat" charms, one of which I managed to set and polish:

Pulling Rabbits Out Of A Hat - WIP - 36

This one has 24 x 1.8mm garnets round it and I'm making others with sapphires, rubies and mixed stones. One of my colleagues has commented that it is something of a departure from the "horrific" pieces made from silver rib-cages and broken dolls which have been on the desk more recently, "I can't believe you've made something cute", she said!

The hat was a digital model, printed in wax and then cast; the rabbit was cast from a toy (images of these can be seen in this post).

I spent the break - as usual - in Brighton with several trips to London in encouragingly sunny and spring-like weather. There was even time to get some gardening done, including the cleaning of the pond which I have been forestalling for over a year... Lots of flower photographs too, something I really enjoy and I was lucky enough to find a rather odd lens in a charity shop which became the lens-of-the-moment on my camera, an old East-German Leica clone, a Meyer-Optik Görlitz Orestor 100mm f2.8

Aesculus hippocastanum - Spring Growth

It is Election time over here and although these blog posts probably don't reflect it, I am normally very interested in politics but this time around, I'm just scunnered with all the politicians and their hidden personal agendas and photocopied catch-phrases; with their blatant and glib lies and their offensive bandwaggoneering. I am sick of the racism, the sexism, sick of the class-war (from both sides) and sick of reactionary and/or populist posturing. I don't know how I am going to vote... as a firm believer in Adam Smith's "Free Market" and with a social conscience - as, indeed, had the great Adam Smith himself - nobody suits me. Nobody. If only there were a box for "NO CONFIDENCE", but then the UK might find itself with no government.

I have been enjoying some of the political graffiti on posters, particularly this one on a poster for a horror-film:

The Conservative Party

London is currently awash with Shaun The Sheep statues and I think I found my favourite just outside Goldsmiths' Hall, designed by Vivi Cuevas from Bristol:

Shaun The Sheep On Guard

I was at Goldsmiths' Hall as a representative of the ACJ (Association for Contemporary Jewellery) at the Hall's "Make Your Mark" event encouraging graduates to register for assay marks. A busy day but a good one for the Association.

Goldsmiths' Hall - 2

As I've mentioned before, Cursley & Bond Gallery in Folkestone have been really good in terms of promoting and selling my work and Nicola invited me to speak at the gallery after the success of my previous talk last year as part of the Folkestone Triennial. This time, I decided to speak about the way in which a piece comes together and how I integrate digital and traditional techniques into my work, using the "20000 Leagues Under The Seas" collar as an example.

20000 Leagues Under The Seas - Professional Photograph

This had just come back from the Goldsmiths' Craft and Design Council show in Goldsmiths' hall and I took it with me as part of the talk.

20000 Leagues Under The Seas - Talk at Cursley & Bond Gallery - 3

It is lovely to actually meet and talk to people who enjoy my work.
If you are interested, you can download a copy of the talk here.

One of the highlights of my break was going to Bedlam Mews, in London, named after the notorious Victorian "lunatic asylum".

Bedlam Mews

I was off to meet with the radical tailors, Mark and Caroline, known as Earl of Bedlam, who have become the 21st Century equivalents of the swinging 60s Tommy Nutter or the 1970s Anthony Price, dressing rock-stars, Michelin-starred chefs, DJs, artists, eccentric businessmen and now me. Mark and Caroline are the furthest thing you can imagine from the stuffy British traditions of Savile Row while creating clothes to that exacting standard.

Mark and Caroline

Some time ago, I had become aware of their work through Grey Fox Blog (where I have found all my recent British clothiers) and a little research determined me that I should own one of their incredible "Tectonic" Suits.

Larry Love of Alabama 3 wearing an Earl of Bedlam Tectonic Suit, image courtesy of  Earl of Bedlam Blog
What stopped me from ordering the moment I discovered these suits was the realisation that it is possible to have too much tweed and wool in the wardrobe and that I'm better-dressed in winter than in summer. It was when Caroline posted a photograph on Twitter of some new summer Seersucker fabrics that the idea hit me:

A Summer Tectonic suit, made from classic Seersucker. When I suggested this to Caroline, she was most enthusiastic and so it is to be made: more on that soon.

From the moment I stepped into the creative lair of their studio, I felt welcome and comfortable. The studio is a fascinating space and Mark and Caroline are fascinating people, surrounded by paintings, fabric samples, screen-printing equipment and half-finished jackets on forms. One of the jackets was not by The Earl but by Jean-Paul Gaultier... fans of Luc Besson's "The Fifth Element" will possibly recognise it:

The Justified Sinner Wears A Legend!

After all that excitement, I'm back in the workshop today and back to making more of the signature "Nut Rings".

Recycled Nut Ring With Spinel

Sunday, March 29, 2015

The Perils of "Secret" Projects!

This last couple of months has been absolutely unbearable for someone who enjoys sharing the progress of works online. First came the Caledonian Sleeper cufflink commission, then came my work with "The Contemporary Jewellery Exchange" for Jan Donaldson, which I can't show until the 1st of May!

The good thing is that I can now reveal the cufflinks for the Caledonian Sleeper, made for the designer of the uniforms, Alan Moore at Ten30 Designs. The service launches on the 1st of April but the press launch was on Monday this week and so I can now show the design, based on the company logo:

Caledonian Sleeper Cufflinks Macquette - 1

Caledonian Sleeper Cufflinks Macquette - 2

These were developed digitally from the original graphic files for the logo:


And then sent out for bulk casting, which then left me all the cleaning-up to do! I did have very kind offers from the students and my colleagues to help, but in the end, I completed everything on time.

Caledonian Sleeper Cufflinks - WIP - 3


Caledonian Sleeper Cufflinks - WIP - 2

I'll post photographs of the uniforms when I have them.



I've managed to get quite a lot done on the "Pulling Rabbits Out Of A Hat" watch chain for the ACJ exhibition and completed the application drawing. I hate making drawings like this as it denies the spontaneity of the way that I normally work, so it can only ever be an approximation of the final piece. My very detailed sketchbooks normally evolve along with the piece being constructed, designs changing in response to problems, materials and my general whims.

Pulling Rabbits Out Of A Hat - Drawing -  27

The central element is almost constructed and I'm waiting on the 3D-printed steel elements for the watch case which will drop into the Victorian silver case which I bought for "scrap" many years ago.

Pulling Rabbits Out Of A Hat - WIP - 28



It is always so lovely and flattering when people decide that they want to send me things that I might use in my work. This week, it was an absolute joy to open a parcel from Mel Gustafson and find all manner of goodies, including a huge batch of gemstones she no longer wanted:

A Wonderful Gift - 1

Some amazing beetle elytra (which oddly sound like metal when they touch together):

A Wonderful Gift - 4

And some "sleeping" doll's eyes:

A Wonderful Gift - 5



Last week was the resurgence again of a project which was started many years ago and which has been on tour round the world, in residence at the National Museum of Scotland and which is now a "Learning Resource" for schools and colleges to borrow. The "Silver of the Stars" exhibition was begun by the Incorporation of Goldsmiths, bringing together ten Scottish celebrities - though both "Scottish" and "Celebrity" are to be interpreted loosely... quite how Alexander McQueen qualifies as either is unclear! - with ten Scottish silversmiths to create work for them.

The learning resource was launched last week at Edinburgh's "Dovecot Studios". The event itself was worthy and dull, but it was rather nice to be able to see the silverwares again.

"Silver of the Stars" - 2

Left to right, John Creed for writer, Ian Rankin; Linda Robertson for Lulu; Grant McCaig for Robbie Coltrane; Sarah Cave for Cameron Mackintosh.

"Silver of the Stars" - 3

Left to right, Sarah Hutchinson for Sharleen Spiteri; Michael Lloyd for Sean Connery; Marion Kane for Ewan McGregor.

"Silver of the Stars" - 5

Left to right, Roger Millar for Nicola Benedetti; Cóilín Ó Dubhghaill for Billy Connolly; Graham Stewart for Alexander McQueen.



Regular followers will recall that a few weeks back, I met with Al Blair, a Glasgow artist and fellow junk enthusiast and spent a very cold afternoon in his studio. On Thursday night, I went to the opening of a bar in the city for which he has provided a lot of the fixtures and fittings. Bar Ten - now known as "Tabac" - was something of a Glasgow legend... originally opened in 1988 (I was at the first opening too!) with interiors by Ben Kelly, Bar Ten developed an almost cult following and almost everyone I know remembers it fondly but almost everyone I know has also stopped going there, so it is good to see that someone - Fergus McVicar - has taken the bull by the horns and re-opened it with a view to turning it around.

The original Bar Ten was very clean, fresh and wilfully modernist. It was absolutely tiny but somehow managed to be airy. Al and Fergus, along with other Glasgow artists, have taken the idea of "modernism" and the intimate qualities of the space and created a space that feels intimate and somehow illegal, somewhere that wouldn't be out of place in a dark corner of 'Total Recall' or 'Terminator'.

Tabac / Bar Ten - 4

Tabac / Bar Ten - 5

Friday, March 13, 2015

The Time Between Posts!

Gets longer and longer.

I need to get into the habit of posting more frequently.

The last couple of weeks have been very busy, mainly working on the cufflinks for the Caledonian Sleeper which I am not allowed to show you until after the press-launch on 23rd March. It is a real production job and not the sort of thing I really enjoy, even though I am going to be so incredibly proud to know that my work is part of something so big and impressive.

Other than that, we've had a visit from Maira at Gemstones Brazil and I bought some more stones from her stock of incredibly well-cut gemstones: 

Gemstones From Brazil - 3

I've also been working on my entry for the Association for Contemporary Jewellery annual competition, this year on the theme of "Sleight of Hand". I've decided to take a damaged and discarded silver watch case from an 1898 pocket watch and make a very untraditional watch and chain for a traditional magician.

The case was found in a bag of scrap bought for casting and always struck me as too interesting to melt down, so it has sat in my box of materials for years, along with the brass game spinner shown here:

Pulling Rabbits Out Of A Hat - WIP - 1

I've only too late realised that I didn't photograph the case before I attached the skull and ring, which was an oversight. The back and sides of the case are quite elaborately engraved:

Pulling Rabbits Out Of A Hat - WIP - 21

The tubing in the photograph above is to become the toggle which holds the chain into the waistcoat button and in keeping with the theme, I've engraved this to become a wand:

Pulling Rabbits Out Of A Hat - WIP - 17

The whole piece is called "Pulling Rabbits Out Of A Hat" in reference to the main centrepiece, a fob of a rabbit in a hat:

Pulling Rabbits Out Of A Hat - WIP - 13

The hat has been modelled in Rhino to allow it to be set accurately around the hatband:

Pulling Rabbits Out Of A Hat - WIP - 16

I'm having this 3D-printed but did run a test on the mill:

Pulling Rabbits Out Of A Hat - WIP - 15

More soon on this project.



Yesterday, I found out about and exciting project, The Contemporary Jewellery Exchange 2015. Olga, who runs the project, was short of one person for her pairs and through Mark Fenn, I became the final member of the project!

What delighted me most was learning that I was to be paired with Jan Donaldson in Australia for my exchange. I absolutely love her work:


I have just the piece to start me off on my piece for her, a ceramic doll body...

My Iron Lung - TCJE 2015 - WIP - 1

More on this soon, too!



My students have been blowing me away with their stone-setting and CAD abilities this term. These pieces were both designed, made and hand-set by students on my HND course:

Paula Sloan - 2
Ring by Paula Sloan

Mariusz Sugila
Ring by Mariusz Suliga


Finally, I received Andrew Neilson's amazing photograph of the watch chain I made for photographer Simon Murphy. Delighted, as ever!

Photographer's Watch Chain - Professional Photograph