SO... it is that time of year again and the degree shows are in full-swing. Unfortunately, because of the timings of holidays, the exam board and external examiner for my own graduands, I didn't get to see the usually exciting Duncan of Jordanstone College of Art and Design show this year. This is doubly sad as DJCAD is the body which awards my own degree programme. As ever, DJCAD has put together an excellent website with details of all the students exhibiting, which you can see here.
Thursday night was the opening of the show at Edinburgh College of Art with a small cohort of graduates but to the usual high standards. I always especially like the ECA show as there are always a few surprises plus a variety of silversmithing and a few people who are very definitely exploring traditional craft techniques and the 2015 show was no exception.
We started off talking to Maisie Welch, who is showing resin work with inclusions of wood, concrete and plastic:
She spoke to us extensively about the project and her work is an interpretation of a building in Fife which she loves.
I didn't get a chance to speak to Emily Gore about her minimalist work but she had collaborated on a project with Maisie and they had explored some of the fibre-based techniques together, to very different ends.
For me, Natalie Adams made some of the most interesting work in the show with her subtly-died plastics and fine Barbara-Hepworth like wirework. I love the 70s colours and feel of these pieces which have none of the naff cringe-worthy nature of so much 1970s retrospectivism:
One of the silversmiths present was Eva Malkina who makes objects/tools for eating which contain secret and playful references to the ideas around the foods we eat.
I loved Erin Quinn's woven silver baskets which are so elemental and beautifully balanced:
Dongsun Lee is a chatty fellow who is obsessed with explosion and collapse and new technology... he is also coming to visit my workshops sometime next week! His work is quite remarkable, combining traditional silversmithing with 3D printed nylon:
I am a sucker for metal and technical samples and I love it when students lay them out as part of their show. Karolina Baines did just that, showing off her exquisite enamel-work.
Ruth Bolwell's work is all based around natural objects found in woodland which she interprets in fine materials and carefully arranges in groups:
The BA work can all be seen on the ECA mini-website for the show.
Also on display was the work of the single MFA student, Alexandra von Trapp and this is my personal favourite work in the show. Anyone who knows me will understand why!
The degree show from Glasgow Kelvin College was a big affair this year, with BA Fashion Design and Production, BA Visual Arts and BDes Jewellery Design and Technology, this last being the course I teach on.
There are two quotes I want to share about the graduates from my course. The first came from our external examiner, silversmith, Chris Knight, who said, "Every single one of these students could walk into a job in a jewellery workshop"; the second came from a visitor to the show who said, "This is not like a degree show... it is like the opening of a top-quality jewellery boutique". I'm very flattered and honoured by these remarks and hope that my graduates feel that way too!
Barbara Harris has done very well but it is quite hard for me to show why she is so successful as her success is "under the bonnet" as it were: put plainly, her 3D models are exceptionally well-conceived and well-contstructed. They print or mill first time; she understands the subtleties of the programmes she was using to make the models and her small collection of work is a testament to her skill:
Anne Walker has already created a whole brand and back-story for herself, as well as having made a wide range of remarkable work:
I didn't get the chance to photograph the incredible bangle she made for this show but you can see it on her website.
Inness Thomson was a slight cause for concern when he changed the direction of his design investigations about five months from the completion of his degree: I had no need to worry and his fine-jewellery skills coupled with his clear understanding of how 3D technologies can be used in the industry led to a collection of the highest order.
Paulina Sadjak made a collection based loosely on 18th Century wedding designs and set with literally thousands of stones (sometimes even 1mm stones!).
The work of Stephanie Mearns is interesting, largely due to her use of some modelling techniques which she largely taught herself, extensively using the organic modelling possibilities of T-splines. This relates to her first degree, which was in zoology!
Dual Designs - with an excellent logo, I think - is the work of Katie Marriot, who created a collection based around the idea of "remembrance" jewellery, an area fraught with the danger of cliché. I'm pleased to be able to say that due to her interesting take on the idea, she sidestepped that risk, using the notion of grid-references and maps as memory-triggers.
One of the unexpected pleasures of the night was meeting with Rachel O'Neill's cheeky, charming father and understanding completely where she gets it from. Rachel's work is all about her family, from letters and photographs to more hidden meanings in the works.
I particularly like her range of these double-brooches.
The last of our graduates is Sarah Russell, who has further pursued the work she began last year, creating pieces based on her interests in horticulture, pieces which I think have a real arts-and-crafts feel to them.
The whole event was brilliant and really well-attended. The bar was run - with our collective thanks - by a selection of my HND students, which is much appreciated.
Other students also helped out with some of the fashion exhibits and it was good to see Romany Starrs (a name destined for glamour!) work on display as part of the clothes designed by Katie Buchanan:
Although I didn't really get much of a chance to explore the work of the visual arts graduates, the work of Iain McAulay really stood out, not only for being absolutely up-to-the-minute but for being so superbly-conceived and executed. His small-scale sculptural installation, "The Greatest Sin Is Indifference" deals with the displaced people of Syria and is both powerful and moving:
Glasgow School of Art Show is (fortunately) not for two weeks. Time to relax!
Sunday, May 31, 2015
Tuesday, May 26, 2015
Towards a suit...
Posted by
Justified Sinner
Just spent the weekend in Brighton, a much needed break after the week of marking last week, marking the final submissions of our degree students. The above cake was a present from the lovely Rachel O'Neill to thank us for helping her over the years.
Now I'm waiting for the external examiner to turn up and validate the marks so here is a short post while I wait and if you are interested, you can see what the students have been up to here. (I will be reviewing the show fully this week after it opens on Friday.)
Brighton was relaxing as always but I had to go up to London on Friday for sartorial reasons, largely to collect a jacket from Susannah Hall - pictures of that to follow - and to have the first fitting for my new summer suit from The Earl of Bedlam. It has to be said that I normally find the "forward baste" very exciting when I'm getting clothes made... it is at this point that you realise how your ideas for the piece will or won't work and it is also the point when the half-formed suit starts to take the perfect fit to your own body. In this case, I was excited - as usual - but when I finally saw the coat on the form, I was beside myself and actually lost for words...
And now anyone who has been following this will be able to see what the "Tectonic" aspect of the suit is: the panels are cut in a variety of directions to the stripes, which is not only wonderfully subtle, but it is also a little shocking.
Detail of the panelling of the jacket.
The waistcoat. Yup! A pink lining! (The Liberty print shirt is from Susannah Hall, link above.)
With the fantastic Caroline, emphatically NOT looking like a "farmer's wife"!
Can't wait to see this finished now.
Two of my ex-students, Eilidh and Ishbel, have set up in business as "Makers Workshop", offering jewellery bench hire, tuition and a gallery space, a much-needed service in Glasgow. I'll be visiting soon and will get some photographs.
Next... degree shows!
Sunday, May 17, 2015
Rabbits, Glass Sheep, Ada Lovelace and Virginia Woolf (in Hindi)
Posted by
Justified Sinner
The main event this week has been completing my watch and chain for the ACJ exhibition "Sleight of Hand". The last element to be completed was the fitting of a glass to the 1838 silver watch-case which was the catalyst for the whole piece and I found an incredible place in Kent where, for a very modest fee, a traditional thick, bevelled mineral-glass was cut to fit, polished and fitted. (Anyone else requiring this service should contact "Crystalfit": highly recommended.)
After this arrived back from the fitting, it was just a question of dropping the movement into the case and polishing the chain and fob.
Some of you may recall that part of the exhibition involved the production of a set of smaller, more commercial pieces which relate to the main exhibit and I have also been working on my "Rabbit in Hat" pendants. These were also finished this week:
There will not be much more from me over the next week as it is final-year hand-in time for the degree students and I am going to be locked away marking but it is nearly that time of year again for the reviews of the Scottish jewellery degree shows, kicking off with Dundee's in ten days' time.
One of the students caused me to dig out an old piece this week, a brass tea-caddy that I made almost 15 years ago. It was very pleasing to know that they still couldn't work out how I'd done it!
On Saturday night, I hooked up with my friend, Carrie Fertig, for a party to celebrate the opening of her new studio in Edinburgh. You may recall Carrie from a previous post about her work for a show in Perth in 2011. Her new studio is a fantastic space very near to the centre of Edinburgh and already full of her brilliant work, including this:
Although you might not guess it, this is a musical instrument and make the most glorious noise. Carrie has been working a lot with music and sound recently, collaborating with dancers and composers and making thrilling musical instruments which reflect her own interests and history. You can see several videos of her work on Vimeo, well worth having a look.
One of the things I like about Carrie's work is that no matter how serious the intent, there is often a real humour to the pieces, such as this golden lamb:
For long enough there has been a page in one of my notebooks with two words written on it in very large letters: ADA LOVELACE. If you have never heard the name before, I would hardly be surprised but society in general should be ashamed of the fact that Charles Babbage's right-hand man was, in fact, a woman, the sublimely eccentric Ada Lovelace. Everyone knows that Babbage created the first computer and that it was his thinking and engineering skills which led to the computers which we have today but what almost nobody realises is that it was Ada Lovelace (correctly Augusta Ada King, Countess of Lovelace) who wrote the first 'computer programme', the very first machine-readable algorithm.
Ada Lovelace was a remarkable character in so many ways, starting with the fact that she was Lord Byron's daughter. Her interest in mathematics came from her mother's determination that her daughter should not follow her detested father into poetry and insanity! Well, it seems to have worked and Ada Lovelace was one of the truly great minds of the 19th Century, up there with Babbage, Faraday, Dickens and Brunel, all of whom she knew.
I've been a fan ever since I read about her many years ago and have wanted to make a piece of jewellery about her as part of a series of biographical works for which I've made notes but almost no progress (this series includes the Alexander McQueen pieces from last year and there are notes on a piece for John Cage and one for Alan Turing).
The Ada Lovelace piece could come a step nearer now that I've discovered this remarkable book:
"The Thrilling Adventures Of Lovelace And Babbage" by Sydney Padua, a book which blends fact and fiction so cleverly and inventively that it is possible to get lost in the uproarious narratives without even realising that you are learning loads about all the (real-world) characters without ever confusing the truth with the fantasy for one moment. The book is obsessive, rather as a devotion must be - this is definitely the work of a woman on a mission! - and the author/artist intrudes herself into the narratives with exclamations of pride and joy at her own researches and discoveries in a manner which never seems vain or objectionable but which adds reality and humanity to the work. As someone who loves footnotes, endnotes, marginal notes and even footnotes on endnotes, this is a sprawling, complex pleasure of the first order, especially as many of my own heroes of the 19th Century appear in bit-parts.
Finally, I went out for dinner with my friend, Janine this week. We decided that we wanted curry and went to a fairly recent addition to the Glasgow restaurant scene, Usha's, a vegetarian pan-Indian restaurant which deals in lesser-known Indian foods. The food was excellent and we were both tickled by this quotation from Virginia Woolf, offered in Hindi with no translation (even though we both guessed it).
After this arrived back from the fitting, it was just a question of dropping the movement into the case and polishing the chain and fob.
Some of you may recall that part of the exhibition involved the production of a set of smaller, more commercial pieces which relate to the main exhibit and I have also been working on my "Rabbit in Hat" pendants. These were also finished this week:
There will not be much more from me over the next week as it is final-year hand-in time for the degree students and I am going to be locked away marking but it is nearly that time of year again for the reviews of the Scottish jewellery degree shows, kicking off with Dundee's in ten days' time.
One of the students caused me to dig out an old piece this week, a brass tea-caddy that I made almost 15 years ago. It was very pleasing to know that they still couldn't work out how I'd done it!
On Saturday night, I hooked up with my friend, Carrie Fertig, for a party to celebrate the opening of her new studio in Edinburgh. You may recall Carrie from a previous post about her work for a show in Perth in 2011. Her new studio is a fantastic space very near to the centre of Edinburgh and already full of her brilliant work, including this:
Although you might not guess it, this is a musical instrument and make the most glorious noise. Carrie has been working a lot with music and sound recently, collaborating with dancers and composers and making thrilling musical instruments which reflect her own interests and history. You can see several videos of her work on Vimeo, well worth having a look.
For long enough there has been a page in one of my notebooks with two words written on it in very large letters: ADA LOVELACE. If you have never heard the name before, I would hardly be surprised but society in general should be ashamed of the fact that Charles Babbage's right-hand man was, in fact, a woman, the sublimely eccentric Ada Lovelace. Everyone knows that Babbage created the first computer and that it was his thinking and engineering skills which led to the computers which we have today but what almost nobody realises is that it was Ada Lovelace (correctly Augusta Ada King, Countess of Lovelace) who wrote the first 'computer programme', the very first machine-readable algorithm.
Ada Lovelace was a remarkable character in so many ways, starting with the fact that she was Lord Byron's daughter. Her interest in mathematics came from her mother's determination that her daughter should not follow her detested father into poetry and insanity! Well, it seems to have worked and Ada Lovelace was one of the truly great minds of the 19th Century, up there with Babbage, Faraday, Dickens and Brunel, all of whom she knew.
I've been a fan ever since I read about her many years ago and have wanted to make a piece of jewellery about her as part of a series of biographical works for which I've made notes but almost no progress (this series includes the Alexander McQueen pieces from last year and there are notes on a piece for John Cage and one for Alan Turing).
The Ada Lovelace piece could come a step nearer now that I've discovered this remarkable book:
"The Thrilling Adventures Of Lovelace And Babbage" by Sydney Padua, a book which blends fact and fiction so cleverly and inventively that it is possible to get lost in the uproarious narratives without even realising that you are learning loads about all the (real-world) characters without ever confusing the truth with the fantasy for one moment. The book is obsessive, rather as a devotion must be - this is definitely the work of a woman on a mission! - and the author/artist intrudes herself into the narratives with exclamations of pride and joy at her own researches and discoveries in a manner which never seems vain or objectionable but which adds reality and humanity to the work. As someone who loves footnotes, endnotes, marginal notes and even footnotes on endnotes, this is a sprawling, complex pleasure of the first order, especially as many of my own heroes of the 19th Century appear in bit-parts.
Finally, I went out for dinner with my friend, Janine this week. We decided that we wanted curry and went to a fairly recent addition to the Glasgow restaurant scene, Usha's, a vegetarian pan-Indian restaurant which deals in lesser-known Indian foods. The food was excellent and we were both tickled by this quotation from Virginia Woolf, offered in Hindi with no translation (even though we both guessed it).
"One cannot think well, love well, sleep well, if one has not dined well."
Saturday, May 09, 2015
My Iron Lung - St Dauvit
Posted by
Justified Sinner
At last I can reveal the "secret project" I have been working on for the last month for "The Contemporary Jewellery Exchange 2015" in which various contemporary jewellers around the world create pieces which they send to each other. I didn't want to reveal what I was making until the recipient, Jan Donaldson in Australia, has received it.
Jan has written and researched extensively on the subject of dolls and puppets - she is a master puppet-maker - and her work very much relates to dolls as carriers of meaning, emotion and memory and I wanted my own piece for her to reflect those interests. For some time, I've had this damaged 'porcelain' doll lying on the bench:
(I thought it was porcelain, but when I came to drill it, it proved to be very hard cast glass!) I can't quite remember where this came from but I've been thinking about giving it some sort of prosthetic limbs to replace the broken ones and this project became the ideal vehicle for it.
The starting-point was the idea of creating a sort of puppet-theatre, rather in the form of my "Cold Genius" and "A Forest" pieces, a box in which a little drama can be played out and again the source material was music, this time Radiohead's "My Iron Lung".
I can't quite remember why I settled on this song, but the lyrics - especially the lines,
This text also appears on the hinged door on the back of the piece (which allows access to the rear of the doll, access to the brain):
The main body of the pendant is made from a piece of corroded steel box-girder and I'm very pleased with the completed piece, which has loads of little details to the chain and the box itself. My favourite element is probably the movable 9ct gold gas-mask on the doll:
If you would like to see more photographs of how this came together as well as the details, these can be found here.
I am delighted to be able to report that Jan loves this piece.
BUT, it was an exchange: what did Jan send me?
I received "St. Dauvit: Fragments from the Alter", a startling and impressive piece which I absolutely love, including brass, a found bell, handmade silver dolls, bass guitar strings, handwritten vintage letters and huge brass pins from a defunct textile mill in Sydney:
I am absolutely amazed by this piece, which can be partially dismantled and worn as either a brooch or a pendant and which so perfectly reflects aspects of my own interests and practices and it is fantastic to be able to say that our experiences of this project are such that I am really hoping to meet with Jan in the autumn of this year, either here in Glasgow or in Paris, where she is attending a puppet-making conference.
In terms of other work on the bench, I've been working a lot on my entry for the ACJ exhibition, "Sleight of Hand" for which I have now been selected, completing the watch chain, internal watch chain and the fob:
The case is currently away having a new glass made and fitted but the whole should be completed very soon.
Last time I was in Brighton, I picked up a pair of horse bits in a junk shop, quite simply on the grounds that they are the perfect size for bangles!
The bit on the right has already been made into a pair of bangles, "Nag Nag Nag" and "Horse Rotovator" - managing to neatly reference 1980s industrial music as well as horses (!) - using the idea of the mediaeval scold's bridle for the forms:
It is that time of year when the students impress me by showing that they have become real jewellers! Here is a little piece by my student Paula Sloan, a hand-formed anti-clastic raised silver bangle, set with multicoloured sapphires:
I also managed to find time to pop into London to the V&A to take in two phenomenal shows, "Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty" and "What Is Luxury".
The McQueen show is more than just a re-showing of the Metropolitan Museum show of 2011 and is larger, better laid-out and somehow just altogether less cluttered and claustrophobic while offering much more. For me, this is a show of overwhelming sadness about what the world has lost in his passing. I'll be writing up a full review for publication in the ACJ's "Findings" magazine in September. All I have to say is that this is not to be missed.
"What Is Luxury" is not such a blockbuster but it rather neatly addresses some of the issues which preoccupied McQueen (especially in his last "Horn of Plenty" show), issues about waste, branding, inequality, as well as how talent, skill and concept feed into the idea and does this by creating a fascinating dialogue between different ideas of luxury in the past and projecting those ideas into what could become luxury in the future.
Jan has written and researched extensively on the subject of dolls and puppets - she is a master puppet-maker - and her work very much relates to dolls as carriers of meaning, emotion and memory and I wanted my own piece for her to reflect those interests. For some time, I've had this damaged 'porcelain' doll lying on the bench:
(I thought it was porcelain, but when I came to drill it, it proved to be very hard cast glass!) I can't quite remember where this came from but I've been thinking about giving it some sort of prosthetic limbs to replace the broken ones and this project became the ideal vehicle for it.
The starting-point was the idea of creating a sort of puppet-theatre, rather in the form of my "Cold Genius" and "A Forest" pieces, a box in which a little drama can be played out and again the source material was music, this time Radiohead's "My Iron Lung".
I can't quite remember why I settled on this song, but the lyrics - especially the lines,
"My brain says I'm receiving pain,
"A lack of oxygen,
"From my life support,
"My iron lung"modified the idea during the drawing stage into being something more related to the idea of an operating-theatre and the cruciform support for the strings of the puppet morphed into a red-cross on top
This text also appears on the hinged door on the back of the piece (which allows access to the rear of the doll, access to the brain):
The main body of the pendant is made from a piece of corroded steel box-girder and I'm very pleased with the completed piece, which has loads of little details to the chain and the box itself. My favourite element is probably the movable 9ct gold gas-mask on the doll:
If you would like to see more photographs of how this came together as well as the details, these can be found here.
I am delighted to be able to report that Jan loves this piece.
BUT, it was an exchange: what did Jan send me?
I received "St. Dauvit: Fragments from the Alter", a startling and impressive piece which I absolutely love, including brass, a found bell, handmade silver dolls, bass guitar strings, handwritten vintage letters and huge brass pins from a defunct textile mill in Sydney:
I am absolutely amazed by this piece, which can be partially dismantled and worn as either a brooch or a pendant and which so perfectly reflects aspects of my own interests and practices and it is fantastic to be able to say that our experiences of this project are such that I am really hoping to meet with Jan in the autumn of this year, either here in Glasgow or in Paris, where she is attending a puppet-making conference.
In terms of other work on the bench, I've been working a lot on my entry for the ACJ exhibition, "Sleight of Hand" for which I have now been selected, completing the watch chain, internal watch chain and the fob:
The case is currently away having a new glass made and fitted but the whole should be completed very soon.
Last time I was in Brighton, I picked up a pair of horse bits in a junk shop, quite simply on the grounds that they are the perfect size for bangles!
The bit on the right has already been made into a pair of bangles, "Nag Nag Nag" and "Horse Rotovator" - managing to neatly reference 1980s industrial music as well as horses (!) - using the idea of the mediaeval scold's bridle for the forms:
It is that time of year when the students impress me by showing that they have become real jewellers! Here is a little piece by my student Paula Sloan, a hand-formed anti-clastic raised silver bangle, set with multicoloured sapphires:
I also managed to find time to pop into London to the V&A to take in two phenomenal shows, "Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty" and "What Is Luxury".
The McQueen show is more than just a re-showing of the Metropolitan Museum show of 2011 and is larger, better laid-out and somehow just altogether less cluttered and claustrophobic while offering much more. For me, this is a show of overwhelming sadness about what the world has lost in his passing. I'll be writing up a full review for publication in the ACJ's "Findings" magazine in September. All I have to say is that this is not to be missed.
"What Is Luxury" is not such a blockbuster but it rather neatly addresses some of the issues which preoccupied McQueen (especially in his last "Horn of Plenty" show), issues about waste, branding, inequality, as well as how talent, skill and concept feed into the idea and does this by creating a fascinating dialogue between different ideas of luxury in the past and projecting those ideas into what could become luxury in the future.
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